THE BUCOLIC PLAGUE: HOW TWO MANHATTANITES BECAME GENTLEMEN FARMERS

My dear friend Jenn got me a signed copy of THE BUCOLIC PLAGUE: HOW TWO MANHATTANITES BECAME GENTLEMEN FARMERS by Josh Kilmer-Purcell - she is a librarian at a school in Manhattan that, awesomely, brings in adult book authors to speak to their staff in the name of professional development.

Did you read ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, MIRACLE by Barbara Kingsolver?  Well, this is a grittier, yet slightly more fabulous, and gayer version of that book - all in a good way.  Like lots of people, I read THE OMNIVORE'S DILEMMA and thought how great it would be to leave my city life behind and live off the land. Hell, I still harbor fantasies of leaving New York and moving to a farm to make my own cheese and preserve my own vegetable harvest.  Luckily, there are books that remind me of the realities of such a plan:

1. ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, MIRACLE reminds me that it is really hard, back-breaking work to grow all your own food.
2. A PIG IN PROVENCE by Georgeanne Brennan reminds me that, by raising goats (or any living thing, for that matter), you face death and sickness regularly (there's a goat-birthing scene in that one I'll never, ever be able to get out of my head. Ever.).
3. THE BUCOLIC PLAGUE reminds me that buying a farm and working it could, quite possibly, put my marriage in jeopardy.

Kilmer-Purcell and his partner are successful Manhattanites who buy a farm in upstate New York on a whim and, basically, become weekend farmers.  It's exhausting and amazing to read about how they juggle their demanding corporate jobs in New York City, a fledgling entrepreneurial business, and the nitty-gritty responsibilities of running a farm on the weekends.  As you can imagine, it does begin to crack their 10-year relationship and the unraveling is sad and real.

What I appreciated about this book was the honesty and authenticity of Kilmer-Purcell's voice; at no point did I feel like he sugar-coated anything.  I felt like I got a real glimpse of his life: funny, heartbreaking, ironic, difficult, and serendipitous.  I mean, aren't all our lives like that?

One of my favorite scenes takes place in Martha Stewart's vegetable garden and Kilmer-Purcell says this:

The problem with perfection, I realized, is that it leaves others with nothing to do but search for flaws.  In the Beekman garden, which had been sorely neglected lately, guests can wander and admire the plants and occasionally pull a weed or two.  It made them feel useful, helpful, a part of a bigger picture.  If the portrait was already completely painted, then there would be nothing left to do other than pick it apart.

Yes.  As someone who struggles with perfection issues, I found this endearing and poignant.  And it reminded me I should relax and let my dinner guests help me in the kitchen every once in awhile...

The food writing is superb, of course, and the birthday salad scene starting on page 220 is worth the price of admission alone.  Trust me.

This book is for those of you looking for a new perspective on the farming experience.  And think you might want to chuck it all and become a farmer?  You might want to read up first.  It can be beautiful, peaceful, and rewarding...but it ain't a walk in the park either.

Eat, drink, and be an armchair farmer.

And then there were books...

And lest you think I did nothing but eat on my vacation, here is a list of the books I read:

Hunger Games by Suzanne Collins - I FINALLY read it and it totally delivered. Yowza. Luckily, Jen (of Reading Rants) is hooking me up with Catching Fire this week.

Titanic's Last Secrets: The Further Adventures of Shadow Divers of John Chatterton and Richie Kohler by Bradford Matsen - It really leaned toward conspiracy theory, and I'm not quite sure I'm buying what they're selling. A fascinating read, nonetheless.

Sense and Sensibility by Jane Austen - Read this a second time. It

makes me feel calm when my life is in upheaval.

Omnivore's Dilemma: The Young Readers Edition by Michael Pollan - I didn't quite finish it yet...it's dragging for me...

I also got together with three of my favorite librarians: BJ Toewe, Karen Fischer, and Linda Bellock. These three women are the reason I'm blogging today, working as a librarian and in publishing. They work at Salem Public Library and took a chance on a 22-year-old kid with no library degree and not one ounce of experience with children. They hired me as a library assistant and, fast forward twelve years, here I am today. We got together for a delicious meal at BJ's house, overlooking a lake, sitting outside and laughing up a storm. It's glorious when you're able to go back to where it all started and be thankful for all your opportunities.

That said, we didn't really talk books: we gossiped. You know how librarians are...

Eat, drink, and bring a strong back on vacation to carry all your books.

REVIEW (sort of): The Battle for Wine and Love by Alice Feiring

Anyone else out there read a foodie book that changed your entire perspective? What book changed your life? I don’t use this phrase lightly. There are only two books that have held this distinction for me: French Women Don’t Get Fat by Mireille Guiliano and The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan.

Perhaps choosing Guiliano’s book seems a bit trite, but don’t knock it until you’ve read it. Additionally, I understand this book isn’t for everyone. For me, though, it was a revelation. My passion for food, my openness to all its joys, started with this book three years ago.

The Omnivore’s Dilemma took what I learned in French Women to the next level. What both authors advocate is a consciousness regarding what goes into your body. What are you eating? Where is it from? Think before you put it in your mouth! Do you really want to eat that? Really? Or are you on automatic pilot? Do you even care? Whereas French Women tapped into my passions, Omnivore’s Dilemma connected to that part of me that is a lifelong learner and seeker.

Why do I bring these books up? Because I may have just discovered a third book. I use the word “may” because my future is yet untold, and it remains to be seen how much impact Alice Feiring’s The Battle for Wine and Love or How I Saved the World from Parkerization will ultimately have in my life. Having finished the book, I feel a beginning. I will – and have already started – drinking wine with a newfound consciousness, thanks to Alice. And anytime there is a gained consciousness, Life Changes are certain to follow.

Truly, if you love wine, this is a Must Read. That said, Alice’s voice and opinion aren’t for everyone. If you’ve read her blog, then you’re already familiar with her tendency to ruffle feathers, particularly among California wine growers and their corporate sponsors. Anytime there are corporate feathers ruffled*, you really have to pay attention. Clearly, Alice has touched upon something important and I’m paying attention.

In a nutshell, for us non-wine writer and non-wine critic types, Alice makes a pitch for natural wines. No, not necessarily organic because, as we all know, “organic” has been adopted by corporate America and the definition and philosophy behind it has been somewhat, if not entirely, bastardized. That bottle of Yellowtail corked in your fridge…that Mirrasou Pinot Noir I drink at TGI Friday’s to get me through the horrific experience of being there…the Hogue Fumé Blanc that I thought I liked…

Forget about ‘em. Unless you like science experiments. Alice exposes (okay, she exposed it for me, anyway) just how fake all those “flavors” are. Wood chips thrown into stainless steel barrels, vines grown in laboratories, vines “bred” and “selected” for certain flavors, additives galore to try to get good ratings from critcs…yep, your wine has most likely been subjected to all these procedures and more. Read the book – Alice will tell you about it. Maybe you won’t be shocked by this, but I was. I have actually walked into wine stores and said to the salesperson: “I like tobacco, chocolate, vanilla, oaky flavors…What have you got?” Silly me, I actually thought these were all natural. You know, like, part of the soil and shit. Nope. Chances are exceedingly high that I’m drinking a fake wine.

Now, as I wrote in an email to Ms. Feiring, I do still like all those flavors I listed above. But at what cost? Do I want that at the cost of authenticity? Giving up what is real? Is 15% alcohol content really what I’m after? The answer, for me, is a resounding no. As Alice points out, some of the natural wines can taste…um…a little “funky”…but I’ll take that. I’d rather tasty the funky earth over some fabricated approximation of the real thing.

I know, I’m on a tirade, right? Does anything I’ve just blogged seem remotely interesting to you? Then pick up the damn book and read it. I have a wine source where I can get a couple of the wines that Alice mentions in the book – I’ll try to remember to post my impressions of the natural wines**. Either way, though, I do sense a personal revolution in the way I taste, enjoy, and shop for wine, just as Michael Pollan and Mireille Guiliano did that for me in their books.

Eat, drink, and taste the earth

* Wanna get a feeling of the backlash? Here's Alice's Op-Ed article in the L.A. Times. Here is one of many responses to her article. In the response, Matthew DeBord decries natural wines stating that, among other things, that natural wines have "weird herby flavors." I ask you, fellow foodies, when did the flavor of herbs become "weird"? I think, perhaps, Mr. DeBord has forgotten that wines come from grapes...grown in the earth...kind of like herbs... Thank goodness Ms. Feiring reminded me of this!

**FYI - the wines being sent to me are all in the $40 and under range. Granted, one of the wines Alice mentioned in her book was going to cost me a cool $150...I bypassed that one for now. On the other hand, perhaps if I paid $150 for the wine I drink with my dinner I would drink it with a greater consciousness and respect. Regardless, $150 is ridiculously steep for me right now.

President Bush Urges Support of Local Farmers

Courtesy of The Daily Table, President Bush has declared that the best way to deal with the rising cost of food is to give your local farmers' markets and your local farmers your business. Hallelujah! It's certainly a first step and I hope he (and whoever follows in the next administration) puts their policies where their mouths are. Part of supporting the non-subsidy farmer is making sure he/she can actually sustain themselves so, in other words, stop the criminally uneven commodity crop subsidies.

Finally, I feel like our country is at a point where we can seriously talk about how we're feeding ourselves and in what direction we want to go. Food is at the forefront like it hasn't been in decades.

Am I wrong to feel somewhat pleased about the skyrocketing food prices in the U.S.? After all, that's what happens when much of your food distribution relies on petroleum...

Eat, drink, and discuss.

NYT Dining and the food crisis in America

So it’s beginning to feel like I'm beating a dead horse (isn’t that how the horrible saying goes?). However, the issue keeps coming up over and over again, signaling to me that the “food crisis” in our country is relevant and important.

First, check out Nicole’s response to my posts: this brings the contrast between cultures into sharp relief. I was actually surprised by how many of the food displays included soda: U.S., Egypt, Mexico, Italy, Germany, Poland. I was particularly struck by Mexico – so much beautiful produce on display…and soooo much soda. Alas.

The Dining section of the New York Times has an article this week, “Good News About Rising Food Prices,” which discusses how the cost of food in the U.S. (is it happening elsewhere too?) is skyrocketing as a result of the rising cost of fossil fuels and ethanol. It’s costing a whole lot more to transport our food from Mexico to New York, from Holland to Chicago. Is this a blessing in disguise? Given the rising costs, will people really forsake their sodas? Will people turn to local produce and local purveyors of meat and dairy? Naturally, the article mentions Alice Waters, who has reportedly been a vocal advocate of higher food prices. I see her point: with food being more expensive, people will need to make smarter, healthier choices. If food costs more, people might eat less of it. On the other hand, lots of people argue her opinion is elitist and/or classist. Rising food costs makes me a little glad, I admit it. But what about the lower-middle class? People who are “on the fringe”? I honestly don’t believe they’ll suddenly see the light and start eating local, organic fruits and vegetables. It’s not as simple as that, as anyone will argue, I’m sure. You don’t have a paradigm shift in a single month or a single quarter. Heck, when we’re talking about an entire revolution in the way we think and we eat, that can’t even happen over the course of a single year. Eating is too emotional, too personal, too culturally entrenched. So do I think rising food costs are the magical solution? Absolutely not. But they just might be the impetus and, for that, I’m excited to see where we’re heading.

If you’ve read The Omnivore’s Dilemma, you know how Michael Pollan feels about corn. And he converted me to his way of thinking as well. So I read the Boston Globe’s headline, “Food Prices Might Increase as Farmers Plant Less Corn”, with a bit of warmth in my heart. Yay, less environmental impact! Yay, less high fructose corn syrup! Because that’s the kind of gal I am: I react first, think later. Which gets me in trouble sometimes. It was later that I realized this wasn’t going to magically cause meat producers to allow the cows to roam free and eat the grass they’re designed to eat. Nope, ain’t happening. And then two-thirds of the way through the article, the bomb is dropped: soybean planting is up 18 percent. Which, again, if you’ve read Omnivore’s Dilemma, you know this is still perpetuating the unhealthy, environmentally unsound monoculture issue. Where in the world are we heading?

Okay, this is getting depressing. Less doom and gloom, I think:

Since we’re sort of on the topic of healthy, seasonal food, let me take this moment to share with you an article from the San Francisco Chronicle, “Asparagus Fans Support the Delta’s Stalk Market” by Melissa Swanson. As a California native who grew up in the Sacramento valley, I got all warm and fuzzy reading this. Not to mention that I also felt bitter living in NYC where root vegetables are still the stars on parade at Union Square.

Lastly, given the name of my blog, it’s appropriate that I link to the NYT Dining section’s article on California Pinot Noir. I applauded the article because he’s right: California Pinots are so hit-or-miss and tend to be too big and fruit-forward for my tastes. I much prefer the Oregon Pinot Noirs, particularly King Estate. Nevertheless, Asimov includes a list of wines so feel free to have your own taste test on a beautiful spring afternoon!

My Blog is Re-Debuting!

Yeah, I know. I took an unannounced hiatus from the blogosphere, which I think is a total faux-pas. Particularly when I’m just getting started. But it is what it is, right? The point is that I’m back and ready to move forward.

So let’s start with last week’s NYT Dining section. One word: awesome. They were so uninspiring for awhile, but they’re back with a vengeance. Kinda like my blog! So here’s the scoop:

~ Ooooh, absinthe! Seriously, people, it’s back! My local French restaurant has it on the menu as an aperitif, and the Times is writing about it. The article was actually really interesting because it goes into the history of absinthe, why it was banned, and the exciting innovations going on today. You’ll read this article and be half-tempted to buy a bottle…except that the good stuff cost upwards of $65 for a bottle. Yikes! I hate to plop down that kind of money without some sort of reassurance that I’m going to thoroughly enjoy it. And I’ve never tried absinthe so that guarantee is completely lacking. But if I do try it, you’ll be sure to know.

~ Wine prices are going to go up. Which is really not good news for a blog with “pinot” in its name. Will that stop me from spending half my paycheck on the grape? Never.

~ There was an article on the death of the entrée. But it didn’t do much for me. The entrée is over? Who cares? I just want to eat good food, whether it’s on one big plate or lots of little ones. Just make sure it’s quality.

~ There’s a recipe for Bulgar Pilaf with Chestnuts and Spicy Tangerine Brown Butter. Am I the only one that thinks that sounds insane?! But they wouldn’t put in the Times if it were total crap, right? Right? So naturally I’m tempted to try it.

~ Okay, I hesitate to even mention this next bit because it makes me a hypocrite. But there’s a blurb about cured ham from Spain called Jamón Ibérico. It cures for more than two years and will cost you a pretty penny at $50 a pound. Apparently, it hasn’t previously passed U.S. health inspections, but now it has and it’s coming to the States. Part of me is thrilled – I’m sorry, but I would happily pay $25 for a half-pound experience. However, having read Omnivore’s Dilemma and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, I know what sort of carbon footprint my $25 purchase is making. But damn! I want to try that ham!

And that, ladies and gentlemen, was the NYT Dining section last week. Cool, eh? A proper re-debut for my blog. Now, go forth and, for heavens’ sake, eat well.

YAY! WEDNESDAY! NYT Dining Section!

I know, it's been awhile. I thought things were supposed to slow down after summer reading, but I feel like I'm in the thick of it now. Not surprisingly, I've become completely run down and am home sick today. Which sucks, on one hand. On the other hand, I have time to blog now. Woo hoo! So here's the Dining section round-up:

• Studies have just revealed that picky eating is in the genes, not the cooking! Seriously! On one hand, I think it’s fantastic to hear – it’ s no wonder my girl is so picky because I was up for the award as Pickiest Eater as a kid. She can’t help it – it’s hereditary. I shouldn't take it so personally that she won't eat the food I cook.
  
  On the other hand, doesn’t it seem a little bit like Convenient-Theories-4-U? Well, I guess I’ll keep making Annie’s Organic Mac and Cheese because…well…my daughter has a hereditary condition. That doesn’t seem quite right either, you know?
  
  For me, I'll keep trying. The key is to give lots of healthy, delicious options...and hope that she zeroes in on one.
  
  
• I loved this little article about making pesto. This is how I make pesto…at least how I used to make it before I moved to an apartment that gets only three hours of sun a day, thus making basil nearly impossible to grow. Either way, it’s good to know I’m not the only one who would never use a mortar and pestle to make my pesto. My mortar and pestle is right where it belongs…at the top shelf of my pantry.
  
  
• Corn’s effect on our environment, our country’s economy, and our health is getting more press in a new documentary coming out, King Corn. It’s being advertised as a cross between Super Size Me and Sicko, but the article in the Times makes it sound like the film is a little less sensationalistic than that. The point isn’t necessarily about corn’s evils but, rather, on why we should be more aware of what goes into our bodies. Obviously, Michael Pollan was an early adviser on the movie. I’ll probably check this out on Netflix, but I’m sure it won’t tell me anything I don’t know already: we are all made of corn!
  
  
• And this article isn’t actually from today’s Dining section; it’s from Sunday’s Week in Review section. But it’s written by Frank Bruni so it counts. He talks about sidewalk cafes in NYC. The city just approved the use of more natural-gas heaters in sidewalk cafes, thus extending the café season all the way through “late October”. The article really nails NYC culture – for one, I think Bruni’s theory that NYC wants to be a European city is right on the money – but it hints at a bigger issue. Prolonging the sidewalk café season goes hand in hand with the issue of seasonal food and cooking. Why should I only be able to enjoy tomatoes in the summer? If I can get them from Mexico in November, I can prolong the tomato season. It’s the same idea with the cafes. Part of the joy in them is the anticipation of their season. Not to mention that there’s something special about a glass of light wine, tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and basil outside on a gorgeous summer day. But butternut squash, steak, fennel? Not so much. Put me by a cozy fireplace for that meal, thanks.
  

And that's the round-up. At some point, I plan on posting another menu of what we're eating in our house...except that Adam is giving me a break this week and he's cooking. So Lemon Spaghetti (courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis) and Brodetto di Mare (courtesy of Michael Chiarello) are on the menu. Delicious and simple. And I'm not cooking it. Huzzah!

COMING UP: Reviews of Sarah Miller's Miss Spitfire and N.D. Wilson's 100 Cupboards.

Batter up!: What I'm Reading

Here’s the list of books I have lined up to read in the next…um…oh, I have no idea how long it’ll take for me to get to all these:

CURRENTLY READING: The Quantum July (Ron King) – I’m reading it for School Library Journal…otherwise, I don’t think this is a book I would have been motivated to read.

1. Omnivore’s Dilemma (Michael Pollan) – I was halfway through, but I had to stop so that I could read Harry Potter and The Quantum July.
2. Elijah of Buxton (Christopher Paul Curtis) – it’s getting Newbery buzz so I’ll jump on the bandwagon and read it.
3. The Mysterious Benedict Society (Trenton Lee Stewart) – this one has been on my list for ages and I’m beginning to fear that I’ll never read it.
4. Michael Tolliver Lives (Armistead Maupin) – I love the Tales of the City gang and looking forward to reading this new one.
5. Slam (Nick Hornby) – I started this one at ALA and loved what I read. Can’t wait to finish it.

And then I pre-ordered Stephenie Meyer’s new one, Eclipse, which is coming out August 7th so obviously I’ll drop whatever I’m in the middle of and read that one immediately. Meyer has compared the storyline of Eclipse to Wuthering Heights…Needless to say, the 7th can’t come soon enough.

Up and running: Harry Potter and NYU

Like so many others, I’m in the midst of reading Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Unlike so many others, I’m reading it pretty slowly. I was at the very start of my career as a children’s librarian when Sorcerer’s Stone came out – I remember that we actually got review copies of it. And since then I’ve been on many adventures of my own so I’m feeling particularly nostalgic about this book and a little sad it’s going to be over soon.

Thus far, I have the same complaint about Harry Potter that I (and so many others) have had about the past three books: it needs tighter editing! There are just some scenes that drag on for unnecessary amounts of time. It really gets ridiculous sometimes. But I also feel like that’s a minor quibble at this point: Rowling is a master at creating suspense, tension, and excitement in her stories, and I’m so along for the ride.

On my other favorite subject, I went to a food-related event at NYU last night: “Sustainable Agriculture vs. Industrial Food: A Conversation with Dan Imhoff and Dan Barber. Clark Wolf was the moderator. For the most part, I didn’t learn anything I hadn’t already read in Omnivore’s Dilemma. What I did learn more about was the Farm Bill which, as Marian Burros points out in her Times article, needs to be called the Food Bill. The conversation got me completely fired up about supporting a movement that has the potential to reverse the dangerous course American food culture is currently on. As soon as I finish Harry Potter and a book I need to review for SLJ, I’m going to pick up Dan Imhoff’s Food Fight: A Citizen’s Guide to a Food and Farm Bill.

Here are a couple things I got out of the event:

• California produces 50% of our nation’s fruits and vegetables but they receive no subsidies – those all go to farmers of corn, wheat, soybeans, and other commodity crops.
• Transparency is the biggest issue of the Farm Bill. We want to know where our food is coming from, how it’s processed, what is used to make it.
• Mondavi has an organic wine out…I’m going to buy a couple of bottles and enjoy them while I read House of Mondavi, which is on my long long long reading list.

Apparently the next NYU talk is “Chefs Who Grow Their Own”. Can’t wait!

After the talk, Adam and I went to dinner at Rouge, our favorite restaurant in our neighborhood. We had a bottle of Valley of the Moon Sangiovese, which has become one of our new favorite versatile wines, and shared a cheese and meat platter along with a frisee salad with gorgonzola, hazelnuts, and bacon. Simple but fantastic. And because I had such a light dinner, I went for the out-of-this-world gateau au chocolat avec crème anglaise, a flourless cake they serve that is really a small slice of heaven. Adam had vanilla custard with berries: he liked it, but it was a little too gelatinous for my tastes.

We finished off the evening by going to see Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix. Overall, a lovely evening.